THE IGUASSU FALLS My trip to Brazil was subsidized with a free plane ticket to Rio and São Paulo, so I splurged a little and bought an over-priced ticket to the Iguassu Falls. Domestic plane fares in Brazil are not exorbitant, but they're not cheap. There is very little competition -- essentially GOL Airlines and TAM -- so the sort of price wars that abound in Europe do not exist.
As an example, last year I spent $170 to do a triangle trip from Paris to Lisbon and Barcelona to Paris on Easy Jet, and a connecting flight on Vueling Air from Lisbon to Barcelona. However, a flight to the Iguassu Falls from São Paulo and from the falls to Rio de Janeiro -- about 2/3 of the European distances traveled, was twice as much -- $330.
I found a cheap hotel on the Internet, the Colonial Iguacu Hotel & Spa, which proved to be quite a bargain, as it was situated quite close to the Brazilian side of the Falls and cost only about $50 a night, tax and buffet breakfast included. It was a sprawling hotel, with pool and spa facilities, some of which were part of the room price. The only downside was the television reception, which offered only a few Brazilian stations and nothing at all -- such as CNN -- in English.
Since the location was on a lonely highway, several miles from the town, there was really nothing to do in the evening except wander the hotel or to surf the Internet, which was very overpriced -- $4 for half an hour's usage. However, when I went to the post office in town, I was able to find several Internet cafés, which were about a quarter of the cost.
Michael Russnow at the Iguassu Falls - Brazil side However, the purpose of my journey was to see the world famous falls. I spent my next two full days exploring them fully from the nearby Brazilian side and also from the Argentina side, an hour and a half away using three buses and very affordable for several dollars round-trip unless you want to spend $50-$60 for a taxi.
On the Brazil side, the admission price of approximately $10 (no credit cards accepted) gives you unlimited usage of periodic tour buses, which take you from the entrance to stop points along the way. You can take a rafting trip or go hiking or go straight to the falls. Most people stop at a lookout point and take the main trail, watching the falls become bigger and more spectacular. I met many non-Brazilians, mostly from Europe, some Americans and quite a number of Asians. I'd wanted to take the raft ride, which was more reasonably priced than the Falls circumventing Macuco Safari tour (about $80) but passed when I was informed that I'd be going alone with a tour guide who spoke no English. Plus, I heard that the Macuco boat ride from the Argentina side was priced a lot better, so I headed back to the hotel, where I befriended a young Brazilian engineer with whom I enjoyed the sumptuous buffet dinner the hotel provided.
The next day, I took the quick bus ride to catch another local bus that took me to the Argentina frontier. If you're an American there is no need of a visa to enter Argentina and it is normally a very quick immigration passport check, after which you hop onto the bus to the main bus station. There, I bought a $3 round-trip ticket for the half-hour ride to the falls' entrance. The Devil's Throat -- The Iguassu Falls - Argentina side
The Argentina side is 50% more expensive (no credit cards), but still not too expensive at approximately $15. There's more to see on this side and it includes a number of train rides, plus closer views of the falls, which overwhelm you.
The first thing I did was take a train ride to the end and walk about 25 minutes over rickety bridges to the Devil's Throat, which is stupendous. You are so close to the water that it is sometimes difficult to see the falls -- it is like you are in the middle of them -- almost surreal -- but absolutely something that can't be missed.
I was also able to take the Macuco Safari Boat Ride for about $38, which required a hurried descent from the Upper Circuit of pathways down a rocky slope in order to get to the boat operators, who'd been notified by walkie-talkie that I'd be joining them. We were given life jackets and a big plastic pouch in which to put our belongings and another one for our shoes.
Michael Russnow at The Devil's Throat
Although I put most of my stuff inside the big green bag, I did not bother to put my shoes in the other. Nor did I remove my wallet, which was in the back pocket of my shorts and thus, to my mind, protected. As the boat started its way towards the falls, amidst the snapping of photos by one and all, it didn't take long to get the feeling that, as opposed to a simple, charming boat excursion, I was actually on the Titanic. Suddenly, from nowhere, instead of the expected water splashing of my protected belongings, what appeared like a Tsunami overwhelmed us and I was totally drenched from top to bottom.
I rued the fact that I had left my now soaking tennis shoes on, all the time giggling about this near-death experience. That was the only such tidal wave, but it was enough that I must warn you -- put all your things in the provided pouches and wear a light jacket to protect
your shirt as well.
Michael Russnow getting soaked on the Macuco Safari Ride
While shivering, I thoroughly enjoyed the proximity of the falls and suddenly it was over and we were on to the next half, which required an upward climb and hike.
I emptied my pouch and trudged along behind the others, listening to the squeak of my shoes as we climbed and climbed and climbed to the top. When would it end, I asked myself? Yes, they'd mentioned there was a long upward trek, but this was getting ridiculous. Indeed, about the halfway point there was a First Aid station with a nurse, presumably for those who gave their lives to the effort. Finally, I reached the summit and mounted a truck with a guide, who regaled us about nature and the environment, pointing out flora and fauna along the way, the highlight of which was a bunch of monkeys who were scurrying through the trees.
I felt a bit hurried, as the trip from my hotel had taken longer than expected, but got a welcome respite when I realized that Argentina was an hour behind Brazil, so I actually had another hour to spend in the park. With this extra time, I looked about a bit more leisurely, and then when it was time to go I noticed that everything in my wallet was soggy. Not only my Brazilian Reals, but my return bus ticket, which was tattered beyond repair.
As I took my bills out one by one and laid them on the bench to dry in the sun -- something passersby thought quite amusing and no doubt very resourceful -- I painstakingly attempted to piece together my return bus ticket, recognizing that if I worked too hard it would crumble into tiny shreds.
However, after the train came to take us to the entrance and my bills had somewhat dried, I was pleased that the bus driver, who looked a bit askance at the pile of pink pieces I handed to him, nonetheless accepted them, no doubt used to this happenstance at the hands of the notorious falls.
If you're going to Brazil and don't know when or if you'll be back, the Iguassu Falls is definitely worth a visit. Plan at least three nights so that you get two full days: one each for the Brazilian and Argentinian side. You can also visit Ciudade del Este in Paraguay, which is also nearby, but it requires a visa and there's no advantage unless you're in the mood to shop and visit a tax-free commercial zone known for its bargains. Contact Us
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